
Decision made, I’m heading to Zanzibar for Christmas and New Year. This was going to involve a bit of a journey, but by breaking it up, all manageable. I’m not in any hurry ? 1st a flight to Johannesburg from Victoria Falls. Nice easy journey with an airport pick up and hotel stay while waiting for connecting flight. The hotel was near an Irish Bar…showing football, and as it was the BIG MATCH ….. Palace v Brighton, it would have been rude not to have a visit. The football was a disappointing, 1-1, but the bangers and mash and pint of Guinness made up for it. You can take the girl out of Croydon ?? I did however have to tell the bar man how to pour the Guinness properly ?
Next day, up and early and back to the airport for my flight to Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. At this point the very nice young lad behind the check in desk, asked me if I would like an early Christmas present??? Of course I would, and he upgraded me to business class. Woohoo, I’ve never travelled in anything other than economy. Do you know, you get offered a glass of fizz or juice, in a proper glass when you take your seat??? I also had a cold flannel and all the meals were served on proper plates with proper cutlery!! I’m very easily pleased ??
When I reached Dar, I had arranged a hotel, with transfer at a place that was called Airport accommodation. Note to self….and REALLY do it next time…do better research. The hotel turned out to be several miles from the hotel and journey was an adventure and we ended up in the middle of nowhere. From the flight as we were coming into Dar it looked like several places had flooding, we definitely drove through some of these areas. The staff were really sweet though and very helpful. The bathroom/toilet though smelt of a men’s urinal because it had one of those cake block thingy in it!!!
A bit drizzly on arrival I wish these were £££
Next morning another driving adventure to catch the ferry, survived. Once at the ferry port….OH MY GOODNESS…. it was just mad crazy. I had read a bit on line and knew what to expect, but still was a nutty experience. The guy who had driven me there from the hotel was brilliant. He told me to keep my head down and stay by his side. He took me to buy my ticket and then pointed me in the right direction. I was sorry when he left me. My luggage was taken off me and loaded onto ‘cages’, I just had to remember the number of the cage, so could collect my stuff once we got to Zanzibar. Comfortable journey across to Zanzibar, nice chat with young local guy sitting next to me who recommended places to go and see.
When I reached Zanzibar I was collected by the hotel I was going to be staying at for the next 16 nights. It turns out that the hotel only opened 2 weeks ago and I was actually one of the 1st guest to stay there. When I arrived at the hotel it was very apparent I was the only guest staying there. The owners and staff were amazing though. I couldn’t have been made to feel more welcomed. As I was the only guest, and I was staying for a while, I was upgraded to the honeymoon suite ?? Lovely gesture. I was very excited for the towel swan, as was my friend Sue, who insisted I sent her pictures of them ??
Room with a view
A welcome drink and lunch followed my arrival on the decking over looking the Ocean, such a wonderful spot.
Where I sit to write my blog ??
Another big meal for dinner, and I had to have a conversation with Isaac the Chef. His meals are amazing, and I think he’s a bit of a feeder, but I do not want to be rolled off this island after trying to be a bit more healthy lately, so we agreed that he would tone it down a bit. Must be difficult when you only have 1 guest to feed. On the whole he stuck to his side of the bargain, but every so often I let him give me an extra scoop of ice-cream ??The food is also always beautifully presented with a lot of effort going into it, and I hate being rude and not eating it all.
So to the island of Zanzibar, which is actually a group of 52 islands. The main island, where I am staying, and which most people call Zanzibar, is actually called Unguja. It has a long and amazing history where lots of cultures have crossed over the years. It is mainly famous for its spice trade. The country is 98% Muslim and feels much more Arabian than African. Persian, Indian, and Arab traders used Zanzibar as a base for voyages between the Middle East, India, and Africa. There is a protected and defensible harbor, so although the archipelago offered few products of value, traders settled in Stone Town, a convenient point from which to trade with the other Swahili coast towns.
My first trip away from my honeymoon suite was to Stone Town, I think the capital of Zanzibar. I was accompanied by my bodyguard, Mohammed, and we met up with a guide called James. BTW, I didn’t/don’t need a bodyguard, but the hotel provided Mohammed!!! James took us all around the narrow streets of Stone Town, told me about it’s history and point out bits of interest. An absolutely brilliant tour. Just had to watch out for the scooters whizzing around (no cars allowed).
James the guide The building walls are made from the ocean coral
There are 3 different types of doors in Zanzibar, each from a different culture. 1) Swahili 2) Arabian 3) Indian The Swahili doors are rectangular and are carved with details of spice, flowers and chains (from the slave trade). The Arabian doors are also rectangular and are carved with Arabic inscriptions or symbols. The Indian doors have arched top frame, like Indian palaces. All 3 types of doors have brass studs on them, this was to protect the houses/doors from elephants (there are no elephants here now)
One of the things I love most about Zanzibar, is it’s multi-cultural/multi-faith people. I am told that everyone lives in peace and that the Portuguese Catholic Church is next to the Muslim Mosque, which is next to the Hindu Temple, which is next to the Anglican Church. The rest of the world could learn a thing or two about how to live in harmony from the Zanzibarians (I made that word up).
And so to the Anglican Church. This was founded by a man called James Hannington from Hurstpierpoint (look him up, Sussex people). Anyway the church was built on the site of where the slave trade market used to be. Another country, another group of people stolen from there homes and families and forced into slavery…. it never gets any easier hearing these stories. The site of the slave whipping post is now inside the church, and the flooring around it, is speckled in red to represent blood ? You are also able to visit the dungeons where the slaves were kept and there is a monument to remember the suffering. I also visited the house and grave of the main ‘slave’ trader but I am not putting those photos on here, because he shouldn’t be remembered, only those who’s lives were ruined by him.
Circle = whipping post Genuine slave chains found in the sea
The other thing of note in the Anglican Church, is that there is a wooden cross, which is said to have been made from part of the tree that Dr David Livingstone died under, and where his heart is buried. And the main crazy thing of all, is seeing a church in Africa that wouldn’t be out of place in the UK???
My ‘and finally’ is something I forgot to write in my last blog and I am hanging my head in shame at this point. As my Nomad family left me to go back to their regular lives, my new friend Mel, gave me a bracelet to remember her/them. I wear it with pride, although sometimes when it gets wet, my wrist does turns pink…..Thank you Mel ??
