Sri Lanka (Part 1)

I left Dubai a day after Mell and fly to SriLanka. I embarrassingly cried as I boarded that plane, hopefully the other passengers just thought I was scared of flying!!! I continues to cry a bit during the flight, but luckily as it was a late flight it was half empty and I had a whole row to myself. I sort of curled up and had a little sleep. We arrived in SriLanka about 1am local time (new stamp for passport). I’d arranged a hotel transfer, which went all very smoothly.

That 1st day in SriLanka I spent very quietly. I was still struggling with home sickness, still a bit tearful. I didn’t actually leave the hotel, but I did make the ‘effort’ to use the hotel pool. I also arranged a city tour for the following day.

The next day I did the city tour with a really nice guide. His English and knowledge were brilliant. He showed me the main attractions and we also visited a Buddhist and Tamil temple plus the Catholic Church where all the killings happened last year ? At the end of the tour, the guide dropped me off at the museum which I wandered around in my own time. I was still a bit low, but the kindness of the Sri Lankan people was starting to rub off on me.

The following day I was supposed to move on, but my lack of oomph meant I hadn’t anything planned. With this in mind, I booked an extra night in the hotel I was staying, sat in the shade by the pool and made a plan. I think this really started to refocus me and get me back on track. I studied my Lonely Planet Guide, and thought about recommendations from friends, chose a route and booked all my accommodation. I also booked an onward flight to Kuala Lumpur (I’ll just be stopping there a couple of nights on route to Vietnam). Plan made. I liked the driver who had shown me around Colombo, so I booked him to drive me to my next stop, Galle. I thought he was just going to drive me there, but on route he suggested that we stopped at a turtle sanctuary and I also asked if it was possible to stop at the tsunami museum. For good measures he also threw in a mini tour of Galle Fort area.

So 1st the turtles…..if you know me, you know I love turtles sooooooo much ???. The sanctuary was on a beach where the turtles lay eggs all year round. As I have seen in other places, the eggs are collected and reburied to keep them safe and help improve the turtle population. Once hatched they keep them in tanks until their umbilical area closes, usually 3days, and then release them back into the ocean. Because Sri Lanka is a mainly Buddhist country, no deformed turtle is killed, so they also have tanks full of turtles with various ‘problems’. Not going to lie, I had a little chuckle at the blind ones that kept bumping into things ? A really lovely visit and I was starting to feel much better than I had recently. Nothing can mend a heartache like holding a baby turtle ??

After turtles I went to the tsunami museum, for obvious reasons I don’t have any photos. Very moving and an absolute tragedy for the Sri Lankan people. They had never been hit by a tsunami before this one on Boxing Day 2004. There was no early warning system and most people didn’t even know what a tsunami was. The largest loss of life was from the 2nd wave, because people had gone to the beach to watch the ocean when the tide line retracted (Drawback) approximately 1km, before the wave then came in and hit the coast.  The waves travelled up to 800kph in deep water and were 300 km wide. The largest waves were six meters and they surged inland up to a km. I think from talking to the people at the museum, there is now an early warning system in place, and they are educating the people to what to do should another tsunami hit. A new fault line was created near Sri Lanka following the under ocean earthquake that caused the tsunami, so it is inevitable that this is going to happen again. (My facts may be a bit wrong, please research if you want to know more, or for the correct facts).

We arrived in Galle, a really pretty town, built by the Portuguese, Dutch and British. My driver did a quick drive around the Fort area, and I went into a gem shop (famous in this area) and saw a private antique collection of someone ??‍♀️ Then onto my accommodation for the next couple of nights.

My guest house left me a very useful leaflet with emergency numbers on it….I think they knew I was coming!!! That evening, as Sri Lanka feels really safe (except for the traffic), I went for an evening stroll, found a lovely, empty, local restaurant, had some food (no spice ?). So nice to be able to go out and about in the evenings.

Next day I had a bit of a lay-in and had to lie to my hosts, telling them I was jet-lagged, not just being lazy ? I had planned on doing a Galle Fort guided tour, with a local, so caught a TukTuk (my 1st ever) to the Fort. What an experience that was ?, I survived.

The fort tour was brilliant. The guide really knew what he was talking about. I learnt loads of history about the area and Sri Lanka in general. He also talked about how the fort/walls had saved Galle a bit from the tsunami and not so many people had died there because of it. After the tour I ate in a local restaurant and got chatting with a British couple who were doing a similar route to me, but the other way round, so we gave each other loads of tips. The following morning I managed to get up in time for breakfast, and was given coconut roti, these are lovely.

After breakfast, I caught another TukTuk to a small town called Mirissa…I’m getting to be a pro in the TukTuk now…hold on tight and don’t look forward. Mirissa was a lovely place, really nice safe beaches and a great vibe. I only had 1 night booked here and wished I had longer. I walked into the town from my guesthouse, which wasn’t too far, but I somehow got over hot and felt a little faint. After sitting in the shade for a bit and a load of water, I got a TukTuk back, got changed and went for a swim in the ocean. All better ??‍♀️. That evening I treated myself to pizza instead of rice and fish ?

Before leaving Mirissa, I was up very early to go on a whale watching trip. I was collected at 05:30, but not before I had taken some sea sickness pills ?. Once again, the whole trip was wonderfully organised and the staff can never do enough to help you, from serving snacks to helping you move around the boat for better views. I saw blue whales… you could spot them from the blow holes shooting up water followed by the tail fin as they dived ? and we also a pod of dolphins?. It was a magical trip. No pictures of the whales, because the boat didn’t want to go to near them and stress them out. Got some lovely sunrise pictures though, which isn’t something I see very often, not being a morning person ?

And finally….the tears have dried and the smile is back on my face. I’m so glad I didn’t give up, deep down I knew the homesickness would pass, but its very difficult to keep going when all you want to do is jump on a plane home. The people of Sri Lanka, are some of the nicest I have ever meet, really genuine. This was probably the best place in the world to keep me going and find my mojo again ?? Thank you also to everyone who got in touch after reading my last blog, your support means so much to me, you lot keep me strong xx

Dubai

Before I write about my time in Dubai, and in my rule of being honest….except for my time with Kui in Kenya, since Zanzibar I have been struggling with being home sick. I think it was a combination of being away for Christmas and having my confidence knocked. It felt that because I was leaving ‘Africa’ my time away should be coming to an end, not that I was going to be moving on to a new experience. I think the fact that other than booking a flight to Sri Lanka, from Dubai, I had nothing else planned, all very telling. I emailed my friend, Emily for some advice, as I knew she would be the voice of reason. “Moving on to Asia will be an effort, you’re right, but take it slowly. It will be so worth it. You are the driver. You can take it at your own pace. But don’t give up. This is your one chance to do this. Asia is completely different from Africa and I think you’ll love it even more. Keep going. You can do this. Push through.” I am now currently in Sri Lanka and still struggling. I’m trying really hard to ‘push through’ but I think because recently I have been with people I know and love (more on that shortly), now I am back on my own, I’m feeling really lonely (which doesn’t usually bother me ??‍♀️) I’m just basically all over the place. Watch this space!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway…Dubai……. I lived in Dubai 40 years ago with my family, and although I can’t remember much about it, I’m pretty sure that it has changed beyond all recognition.

I arrived in Dubai quite late, so booked a hotel near the airport. Once settled in my very large suite!!! I treated myself to room service, which was wheeled in on a trolley with white table cloth etc, I felt like a princess ?

The following day, I caught an Uber to the airbnb, I would be staying at for the next 5 nights. An amazing apartment near the marina with 2 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms. It was a private residence but within a hotel complex, so I was able to use the hotel facilities. The apartment had a washing machine, which I quickly put to good use (it’s the small things when you’re travelling!!). This is the 1st airbnb I had stayed in since Cape Town, and forgot how much better they are than hotels etc. I really must make more effort to do more. I settled in, caught another Uber to the supermarket and stocked up on goodies, because Mell was turning up later that day. I also very quickly decided that although the driving was quite aggressive in Dubai, life would be much easier if I hired a car, which I went ahead and arranged.

That night I jumped into another Uber, went back to the airport to pick up the hire car and then Mell. It was fantastic to see her. There may have even been a tear or two!! For me it hadn’t felt like its been 4 months since I last saw her, but Mell said it did to her. I guess when you are travelling, the time passes much quicker?? A quick dinner (McDonald’s…..my 1st in 3 months ?) and back to the airbnb as it was quite late.

After a long lie in, we hit Dubai for some sightseeing, which for anyone who knows Mell, means touring all the local eateries!! We started off going to the Palm Jumeirah. A little underwhelming, but good to see it.

After driving around for a while, we ended up at a very large shopping centre called Dubai Mall. It was so huge it even had a full size Aquarium inside (think sealife centre…on steroids). We did lots of walking around, a bit of shopping and The Cheesecake Factory.

We then tried to see the ‘fountain show’ and ‘light show’ on the Burj Khalifa Tower. The rain however started coming down in waves….apparently it only rains for 5 days in Dubai, a year. These 5 days were when we where there. Poor Mell didn’t get her winter sun, but at least it was warm most of the time!! We watched the fountain show, got soaked through and gave up on the light show.

We nipped back to our airbnb to dry off then went to a ‘pumping’ bar to meet up with Francesca. (Francesca is a nurse, that I worked with in England, who came to Dubai 2 years ago to make her fortune.) It was so amazing to see Frankie after 2 years, and like with Kui, the years just melted away. Francesca’s job sounds like a nightmare….they do a whole week on-call and have to do 2 weeks out of every 6. I think the on-calls aren’t as busy as ours in England, but she still ended up working all weekend and most evenings until 8pm, while I was there ?

The following day we tried to do more sight-seeing. We headed north to see the gold and spice souks. A lot of the roads, however were closed due to flooding from the very heavy rain overnight, and the journey was quite challenging. When we reached the souks, we just drove round and round trying to find somewhere to park with no luck, so eventually gave up and headed to Hard Rock Cafe, because it was lunch time and we hadn’t eaten. After eating we found a nice bar which had the football on so we could watch Palace v Arsenal…be rude not too.

We then headed back to the Mall, as I needed to buy a new backpack!! My zip kept breaking and I didn’t want to risk it going completely and seeing all my underwear going around the conveyer belt at the airport. We tried to see the light show again…. no luck, so instead we met up with Frankie. This time in a little cafe where we could get traditional Arabic food. The food was great and we put the world to rights.

Determined to have a more successful day sight-seeing, I booked tickets to go up the Burj Khalifa. This tower is currently the tallest in the world and you can go up to the 124th floor. I was very excited to go up the tower, Mell not so, as she’s scared of heights, but she was very brave and even looked out the window. Wonderful view from floor 124 and we could see more storm clouds heading our way.

After the Burj Khalifa, we dodged the rain and went to The Miracle Garden. This, as the name suggests, is a place with loads of plants and flowers in usual displays. A nice visit, and I was especially impressed with the full size aeroplane.

We then headed for the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah. We had already looked at it’s website, and afternoon tea would have cost £145 each, so it was just a drive-by. Once again, a little underwhelming. The beaches in this area also looked like a construction site, so couldn’t see what the appeal was.

That night we met up with Francesca for Italian food…had to be done ?

The following morning, Mell was flying home. We had to be at the airport for 4:30am so it was a very early start. She checked in and then headed to departures…it was at this point, I completely lost it….I literally couldn’t stop crying. As wonderful as it had been to see Mell, in retrospect, I think having a piece of ‘home’ and then losing it, really hit me hard. I suddenly felt, so alone and not sure I could carry on with my trip. I tried to put it down to being tired, but the tears carried on for most of the day. I tried to be proactive and went back to the mall to try for a 4th time to see the fountain and light show….achieved.

By the time I met up with Francesca that evening, I wasn’t really feeling any better, and she had to deal with a very emotional me. After lots of tears and hugs, we managed to eat and then a friend of hers join us, who was lovely, although I looked a state with a red, puffy face. We said goodbye….and once again I was back on my own.

So, that was my time in Dubai. Full of highs and lows. Dubai itself is a strange place. It was great as a transit place for me, I managed to stock up on bits and pieces that I will need for the next leg of my journey (Marks and Spencer’s, Waitroses etc). The whole place feels a bit soulless. I can’t believe they still need so many more apartments/offices/malls, but the building work continues. It was obviously amazing to see Mell and Francesca, but this has made me terribly homesick. The next day, I did manage to catch my flight to Sri Lanka, and I am still trying to push through this low. ❤️❤️

Kenya

One of my decisions to go to Kenya was to visit a very dear friend, Kui, who I worked with in Brighton, but now has returned to Kenya to be nearer her family. A short flight took me from Dar to Nairobi and after filling out a hundred forms, I cleared customs and Kui was waiting for me in arrivals. After Zanzibar and Dar, it was so wonderful to see a familiar face and I may have even had a tear or two in my eyes. I think it was 3 years ago that Kui left England, but it could have been yesterday. We chatted non-stop to my hotel, trying to catch up on each other’s news. My hotel was very comfortable and Kui sat in the garden while I checked in and freshened up.

For the next 3 days, Kui had basically arranged everything. I just sat back and enjoyed being ‘looked after’. That 1st afternoon we went to a giraffe sanctuary/breeding facility. There is now approximately only 700 Rothschild giraffes left in the wild, and they are helping improve the numbers with breeding and education. We were able to feed the giraffe which initially Kui struggled with but was eventually very brave and managed ??

After the giraffes we went to a shopping mall and then a bar for a quick drink before meeting up with one of Kui’s colleagues. It was really interesting to hear about how doctors are trained in Kenya (they aren’t paid) and also learn a little about the Kenyan health service. The restaurant we went to was also great. There was a buffet for salad/veg/sides and then waiters came round the tables with ‘meat’ and carved it straight onto your plate. It was eat as much as you want!! As usual I wasn’t very adventurous. ?

The next day a driver/guide Picked us both up and we headed towards Lake Nakuru National Park. Our 1st stop was at The Great Rife Valley view point. The Great Rift Valley is a series of contiguous geographic trenches, approximately 6,000 kilometres in total length, that runs from the Beqaa Valley in Lebanon in Asia to Mozambique in Southeast Africa. Such an amazing sight and the views were stunning.

After the stop we continued to Lake Nakuru. We did a short game drive before reaching our lodge. Once again it was just amazing to see so many animals in the wild, I have been truly spoilt since I’ve been in Africa. The lake is currently quite high and some of the trees on the edges have died because of the flooding. We had lunch at the lodge then went back out for a longer game drive.

In the National Park we also stopped at a waterfall, where we were allowed out of the vehicle.

After the waterfall, it was starting to get a bit late, so we headed back to the lodge, but continued looking out for the animals and birds in the park.

The lodge we stayed in was gorgeous. We shared a room despite me warning Kui that a had a slight snoring problem…she said she didn’t mind as it was only for one night…she may have regretted that decision the following morning, but was too polite to mention it (Jill Curd ??). The lodge also put on a show of traditional dance and singing which was great. The food was also fabulous.

The following morning we were up and out very early so to catch the animals (I’d forgotten what early starts were like ?). I still hadn’t seen a leopard but Sugar (The guide) said one was spotted the previous night and he was going to head to that area. We managed to get really close to a lion and then just as Sugar was leaving the ‘leopard’ area, he thought he had seen something. Binoculars confirmed there was a leopard up a tree. We we so excited and thrilled to see this. I didn’t really take any photos because I was enjoying the moment, and it was quite along way away. The leopard then got up and walked off the tree, and as we were watching that, another one appeared from the tree branches…a large ‘baby’. OH MY WORD….what an absolute privilege to see this. I may have had to wipe away a tear from my eyes ??

After seeing the leopards we started headed out of the park, but still saw loads more animals and birds.

After leaving the National park we headed to Lake Naivasha for a boat trip. Once again a fantastic experience. We saw loads of birds, hippo, people fishing and general lake life. After the boat trip we headed back to Nairobi where I got to meet Kui’s lovely brother and his family, such an honour ??

The next day I left Nairobi to fly to Dubai, but had the opportunity to stop off at the hospital where Kui works for a quick tour. Gertrude’s Children’s Hospital is a wonderful facility. They had everything, if not better, equipment that we have in our UK children’s hospital. The staff made me feel very welcome and we shared the traumas of being hard working nurses ?. I especially enjoyed meeting the Theatre Manager, our job really is the same the world over.

The little I saw of Nairobi I got the impression it is a young vibrant city with a lot to offer. It‘s obviously has been shaken by terrorist attacks (like lots of places) over the last few years, but the hotels and shopping malls etc, have airport style security everywhere, which gives you a feeling of safety. I can’t thank Kui enough for the welcome I received and all the organising of a perfect trip. I really hope we don’t have to wait another 3 years for the next ‘catch up’.