Victoria Falls….Zimbabwe

Before I talk about my time in Victoria Falls I need to mention my change of plans. I guess one of the advantages of solo travel is that if you change your mind about doing something or going somewhere, you are not effecting anyone else. At some point in my planning, I had decided that I wanted to go overland from Victoria Falls to Nairobi (Kenya). I had wanted to do a similar trip to the one I had just finished, taking in Malawi, Tanzania and Kenya. However, the dates with ‘accommodated’ trips didn’t coincide with the finish of my Cape Town to Victoria Falls one. ‘Not a problem’ I had thought….I have an adventurous spirit, so I booked myself on to a ‘camping’ trip ??‍♀️ Very soon on my 1st trip, it became apparent how ‘difficult’ life on the road was. Long days travelling, doing the daily activities, moving accommodation nearly every day, luggage and being nice to people I’d been forced together with ??. The camping trip would have been on a whole other level. I would have to do all the above, plus put up and take down a tent every day, trips to shower blocks, the toilet in the night, help with the cooking and cleaning and most importantly, NO AIR-CONDITIONING. After discussing with my fellow travellers on trip 1, we all agreed I should cancel the trip and do something else instead. The decision was made easier by the fact that although I would be losing some money by cancelling, I was in fact expected to hand over $1400 on the 1st day of the trip for my food and activities whilst on it. That money could be put towards a very lovely, air conditioned alternative, instead.

Anyway, decision was made, trip cancelled and so back to my time spent at Victoria Falls.

My new accommodation in Vic falls was very nice. I once again had a lovely little thatched room, with air conditioning and brilliant WiFi to plan my time until I get to Nairobi. I had some ideas in mind but needed to do a little research. That 1st morning, I had a lie-in (hurray) and because I had missed breakfast, walked into the town, dropped off my laundry and had lunch. The only problem with Vic Falls is the relentless ’selling’ by the lads, on the streets. I understand that they are trying to make a living, but they will follow you down the road for miles never taking no for an answer. It unfortunately got to the point, I would get in a taxi for a very short journey, just to avoid the endless sales pitches. Such a shame because everything was within a walkable distance. That evening a had a final drink with Steve and Claire as they were off the next day to Nairobi.

And then there was one ?

The following day was my day to visit the actual Victoria Falls. I had put it off until I was rested and my ‘jobs’ had been done, so that I could enjoy it fully. I walked to entrance of the National park, which took me about 20 minutes (I hadn’t been completely put off by walking at this point). I had read several things in the media about how empty of water the Falls was, but I was pleasantly surprised. Yes there were areas where their wasn’t much water, but this is the dry season and usual for the waterfall not to be so fierce. I think the advantage of coming at this time of the year is that without the huge spray coming off, you can see the rock face and river at the bottom easily. I think at high water season, its all spray. I even managed to get a famous rainbow picture ??

Link to video of the Falls

There is a monument to Dr David Livingstone, who discovered the Falls and appears to be highly thought of in this area. Although Livingstone’s body is buried in Westminster Abbey, in the explorers part, his heart is buried in Africa where he loved.

There are 16 view points altogether on the Zimbabwe side of Vic Falls. When I got to what I thought was number 11, I felt I’d had enough and was going to head back to the exit…. however my inner ‘Norman Voice’ told me to not give up and see it through. I did and was pleasantly surprised to find I had actually reached point 13..woohoo. When I reach point 16, I got chatting with a really nice couple from Sweden, one of who was actually from Wales originally. We chatted all the way back to the exit and I made them laugh when I said the actual Swedish one, spoke English with a welsh accent. It made the welsh partner, very happy. Got me in the mood for the Gavin and Stacey Christmas special.

After my walk around the rain forest I stopped at the Falls cafe for lunch. At this point I had not noticed any wildlife, and the cafe had no warning signs that anything untoward could happen. Oh how innocent I was. My cheese sandwich turns up and very quickly half of it disappears into a tree….I still have no idea where this particular monkey came from. The waiter left me a catapult to scare any more monkeys off, so it must be an ongoing problem. Most upset that the monkey didn’t pay half of the bill ???

Eating my sandwich, while flicking me the bird ?

The final thing of note about Victoria Falls, is that from the Zambia side you can go into something called the devils pool, which is right on the edge….I know someone who has done this, and after seeing it, sent her a message to tell her she was crazy. As I’m very clumsy I chose to give it a miss!!!

Another of the days I was at Victoria Falls, I decided to have a little trip back into Zambia and visit Livingstone. I took a taxi to the border, I do love a border, got more stamps in my passport and took another taxi across no mans land into Zambia. Into another taxi and I headed to museum in Livingstone. It was a lovely little museum, very similar to the one in Lusaka, but had a section on David Livingstone. Some of Livingstone’s original letters home are on display there.

I wandered around the town for a while, and then got a taxi back to the border, I do love a border….more stamps for my passport ??

For my return trip, I decided to walk back across the bridge and watch crazy people bungy jumping etc.

My last day at Victoria Falls was basically taking it easy by the pool and packing for my next adventure….. Where too…..Zanzibar for Christmas and the new year. This will be the real test….away from everyone and everything I know at this time of year. One thing is certain though…..I AM NOT WORKING…..WOOHOO ?

Cape Town to Victoria Falls (Part 5)

Day 16……..Okavango Delta. Back by a large body of water ?, this was one of the days I had been really looking forward to. We were going to be in canoes (Mokoro) and being ‘poled’ through channels and lagoons of the Delta. Although I had a bit of concern about getting in and out of the canoes, nothing was going to stop me doing this. We had a short, bumpy, drive to the poling station, where I was paired up with Peter, again, because for some reason the others wanted to stay with their respective partners ??‍♀️. We were given instructions to sit still and not rock the canoe or we would be in…I obeyed. The trip in the canoe was wonderful, so peaceful and so close to nature etc. We were taken to one of the many islands where we saw hippos and crocs.

After a bit more in the canoe, we stopped at another island for a walk, which turned out to be a marathon (I maybe exaggerating). We saw lots more animals..giraffe, zebra, warthog, more hippo, springbok, impala water buffalo and loads of birds. It was starting to get hot now and the end of the walk involved me with my head down, teeth gritted and getting it done!!! A very welcome picnic under a tree was waiting for us when when got back to the canoes.

I wasn’t very graceful getting in and out of the canoe, but I got the job done, and put a few smiles on faces ??

Day 17…..Maun to Nata The drive wasn’t too long today and we stopped on the way to see various animals at the road side and a Baobab Tree. Our new lodge was the best yet. Apparently it had burnt down recently and was rebuilt. My room was beautiful and had an outside shower ?

Later that day we went in a safari truck to see the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans (Nata Sanctuary). It had been raining quite a bit in recent days, so there were big puddles and some places that were impassable. Great drive learning about the Pans and migrating birds. We saw pelicans, flamingos and terrapins in the puddles again. Part of the tour involved stopping and having a drink!! This gave the men a chance to be all masculine and look under the bonnet of the truck ??

Day 18……Nata to Kasane I’ve no idea what time we set off today, but I bet it was bloody early ?? We saw loads of animals again on route to Kasane, this is mainly because Botswana doesn’t have any fences so the animals can just wander where they like.

The accommodation that night was a ‘sister’ hotel to the one we had just stayed in, so another lovely room, this time overlooking the river, but no outside shower. There were many more people at this lodge, which felt so strange being back with ‘tourists’ after so long. Our activity for today was a river cruise in the Chobe National Park. Not having done very much research before my tour, this was a delightful surprise. The river was huge and full of life (and death). We were in Botswana but could see Namibia. Look at a map and see how strange the boarder of Namibia is…I could tell you all about how it came about, but it would take too long, but basically I think the British stitched the Germans up ? We saw so many hippo, up really close, as well as crocodiles and some old friends.

Warning……Crocodiles eating a dead hippo (it’s the circle of life)

Day 19…. Kasane to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe As we were getting close to the end of our tour, as an act of solidarity, I set my alarm for 4:45am for the early morning game drive around Chobe National Park, with the promise we would see the elusive big cats!!! No big cats were seen, but plenty of our old favourites, some shagging baboons (again…the circle of life) and a baboon that took a liking to Pat.

Back to our lodge for breakfast and to collect our luggage and my favourite sight yet of a family of warthogs, up close and personal ??

Shortish drive to Victoria Falls and another boarder crossing (I love a boarder crossing) and a new stamp for my passport. Also lots more animals on route.

Our last night together as group and we had dinner at the hotel. They did a really lovely table for us with fresh flowers and we were entertained by a local Acapulco men’s group. They had wonderful voices and Mel may have noticed a couple of them looked quite pleasant too. Speeches from Norman and Pat and maybe a lump in my throat as my journey with these wonderful people was coming to an end.

Day 20……Victoria Falls The next morning was our official last breakfast and end of the tour. We collected t-shirts that we had ordered and said our goodbyes to Norman and Chris who were leaving to take the truck back to Johannesburg. This time I cried properly. Norman made such an impact on me, his kindness and support through the tough times!!! (Basically anything active ?). He said I had 2 new African sons, so Jake had better watch out ??. I also said goodbye to Per and Helena (the Danes) as it was unlike I would be seeing them again. I walked into the town to sort out a SIM card for my phone which turned into a 2 hour marathon. Basically Zimbabwe has no physical currency so you need a SIM card to electronically buy a SIM card, but you cant buy a SIM card until you have a SIM card ?Eventually a really nice woman in the shop just transferred me data from her phone, and I gave her American Dollars. I then went to a local cafe to get lunch when not long after Pat, David and Peter turned up. Shortly followed by Steve and Claire, and then finally Steve and Mel. It wasn’t planned, but the gang were back together ??

After lunch, us girls walked to the Victoria Falls Hotel, a famous old colonial hotel. We sat in the garden and drunk pimms And basically had a lovely time. After pimms, we went back to our hotel and I picked up my luggage because I was moving hotels for the rest of my time in Victoria Falls. We planned on meeting up later that evening for our last meal together. We went to a restaurant called Mama Africa, and I thought I was very brave ordering something I couldn’t say…. it turned out to basically be chicken satay ?

Final goodbyes to Pat, David, Mel, Steve and Peter (other Steve and Claire are still around for another day). Maybe a few tears. I’m really going to miss being part of this gang. 20 days ago we were strangers and today we separate as friends. This group of people were supportive, interesting and funny. My travels are continuing, but this tour has been such a highlight. I never thought my time away was about ‘finding myself’ but that day on the dunes….something really changed me. I knew things had been tough since my motorbike accident, but I think I had not appreciate that I just hadn’t been looking after myself properly. I’d just been getting through each day at work, with nothing left to give myself or my family (being in constant pain, leading to being constantly tired). I’ve still got 8 more months off work to really get my shit together. Watch this space. And Mel, Steve, Claire, Steve, Pat, David, Peter, Marion, Wietze, Chris and Norman, if you are reading this…. I love you guys ??

Cape Town to Victoria Falls (Part 4)

Etosha Pan

Day 12….Etosha National Park….continued In my last blog I somehow forgot to mention that we also visited the Etosha Pan on Day 12. The pan is a large salt plain, forming part of the Kalahari Basin. It is a hollow in the ground in which water may collect or in which a deposit of salt remains after water has evaporated. It had recently rained so there were a few puddles with a surprise in them….Terrapins. Apparently when its dry, the terrapin bury themselves in the mud and stay there until the rain. The can stay buried for up to 2 years. It seemed such a mad thing to see in the desert.

Day 13….. Etosha to Windhoek Another early start and a longish drive to the capital of Namibia, Windhoek. We saw loads of wild animals on route, which is why I think the drive took so long, because we had to keep stopping to look at them and take pictures. When we got to Windhoek we were given a walking tour of some of the main sights and a history lesson about Namibia. The guide was just a young woman who was so interesting and engaging. Listening to her talk, makes you realise that with the young people being educated and active in promoting change, there is real hope for the future.

North Korea has invested a lot in Namibia in exchange for uranium!!!

The worse part of day 13 was that we were losing 2 members of our gang. Marion and Wietze had to finish their tour to return to work in Holland. Marion and me had a few tears. She is an ITU nurse and we had great chats about health care etc. Holland is pretty much having the same nursing shortages as we are in the UK. We had a great meal at Joes Beer House to say goodbye.

Day 14……Windhoek to Ghanzi (Botswana) We had a mini lie-in today, because our trunk needed a few repairs doing before we could set off. It still was 9am when we had to be ready to leave. The truck wasn’t ready at 9am though and we had to hang around a bit. The weather was also a bit overcast. We seemed to have a long day in the truck, which included another boarder crossing into Botswana. (Have I mentioned before, that I love a boarder crossing)

For whatever reason, by the time we got to our accommodation that evening, I was in a bit of a bad mood, (hopefully only I knew that fact), which is a shame, because the lodgings were really nice. After dinner there was a San Tribal Dance, display, but I excused myself and took me and the bad mood off to bed early….it was just what we needed.

Day 15….. Ghanzi to Okavango Delta. Feeling better the next morning, I joined the group and we had a SanPeople guided walk, learning how they live, their culture and how they survive in the harsh conditions. Really interesting walk.

How to start a fire with 2 sticks, dry grass and zebra poop ??

After a shortish drive we get to Maun, which was quite a busy little town where lots of tourists gather to go into the Okavango Delta. We stopped and had lunch and pretty much had a free afternoon to enjoy the pool at our accommodation. And the most exciting part of today, was that it was Pat and David’s 60th Wedding anniversary. The hotel laid out a lovely table for us all and we celebrated with lots of bottles of bubbly. Such a wonderful couple and such a privilege to have met them and be part of their special day.

And finally….if you want to start a fire and can’t get your hands on any zebra poop, vegan poop will probably do ?? (not my joke, stolen).