Leaving Durban, I was heading for a place called Coffee Bay to spend the next night. As I think I have stated before I try not to drive more than 5 hours a day, as I want to be experience the country, not just ‘drive’ it. Anyway the trip to Coffee Bay should have taken approx 7 hours, which was going to be a long day at the wheel. The drive started off well enough, the scenery was gorgeous, the weather wasn’t the best, but I’m English, so used to rain and fog ????.
At about 4pm, I got to the town of Mthatha from where I would head down to the bay, still approximately 2 more hours driving. Following google maps, things now took a a bit of a turn. The reason it was still another 2 hours to go, although only about 50km in distance, was because the road was pretty much a dirt track from here. It was uncomfortable and annoying but manageable. This ‘road’ also had lots of cattle/donkeys/sheep/chickens wandering across it at times ?
The video above shows what the road was like, in the light and when it wasn’t too bad!!!
After about an hour of driving on this awful road, google maps decided to pack up and I was now trying to find Coffee Bay without any ideas where I was going, and no road signs. I continued driving for 2 more hours, and felt I was lost. At this point it was getting dark, the weather wasn’t great and animals in the road at every turn. I had always said to myself that for safety reasons I would never drive after dark. I had no signal on my phone other than being able to text. So I SOS Jake, to see if he could work out where I was. At 1st we struggled, but after probably another couple of hours, we worked out that I could get my GPS location on my phone, send it to Jake who then told me which direction to go in.
After dark ?
Eventually at about 10pm, I found a track that would led me back to the main town Mthatha. I had decided to give up on finding coffee bay, although Jake said I wasn’t that far from it, because a) there was no way there would be anyone to check me in as I was so late and b) I was getting low on fuel. Midnight I got back to Mthatha, I found a petrol station and filled up on fuel and used the facilities. Looking around, I thought there was no way I was going to find accommodation at this time of night and decided that in view of driving for 15hours that day would ‘bed’ down in the car on the petrol forecourt ??.
I felt quite safe at the petrol station, there was people working all night and it was well lite. Plus they had a toilet and the police and paramedics were also coming and going to use it ?? I slept on and off until 5am, when it became light and I decided it would be safe to drive again. Well I had come away for adventures. Next stop Port Elizabeth.
I took an ’easy’ 5 hour drive to Port Elizabeth very aware that I was tired and had had a rough time the day before. I took regular breaks and got to PE by lunch time. I’ll admit a song came on the radio and I had a few tears…purely due to being tired. I guess one of the disadvantages of solo travelling, is that when something doesn’t go to plan you don’t have another person to bounce off and help make decisions. After my ’moment’ I realised I was back by the ocean and found a lovely cafe right on the beach. There was an outside seating area, which was empty because it was a bit windy!!! I’m from Brighton….it could barely be classed as a light breeze ??
After a lovely lunch, I took a walk along the seafront, then went to check into my B&B. Once there, I showered, got into my pj’s and SLEPT ??. I woke up early evening, didn’t feel like I wanted to do anything or make any effort, so got in my car and went and had a ‘drive thru’ McDonalds. My 1st McD’s in 7weeks. It wasn’t as great as I remember!!!
We went through a lot together trying to find coffee bay 
Port Elizabeth 
Feeling all refreshed the next day, I set about trying to see the sights. It’s mainly a seaside town and the museum was closed (off season), so I sat in the nice cafe on the beach and had a hot chocolate. Weather was a bit drizzly but less windy, but it brightened up as the day went on. Port Elizabeth reminded me very much of Brighton, but with sand. Would have been a wonderful place to swim in the sea if the weather had been better. I keep forgetting that it’s only spring here, so like the UK, the weather is very changeable. Plus, because it’s spring, I got to see ducklings again, this year!!! The B&B was great too, very friendly staff and I learned all about retirement villages.
Red flag, no swimming 
Leaving Port Elizabeth the next morning, I was heading for George, my last stop before getting to Cape Town. This journey is the part famous ‘Garden Route’. The weather was still a little drizzly but oh my goodness, what a beautiful drive. There are 2 roads that I could have taken to get to George, google maps (who I’m still not talking to after the whole coffee bay incidence), took me along the upper road between the mountains. I passed apple farms, vineyards, ostrich farms and so many other beautiful sights. At lunch time I came across a lovely road side pizza restaurant where I was served by an English woman. We had a brilliant chat.
I’ve had 3 nights in George, and it’s a very pretty town. As I had got here via the mountain route, I decided to go back a bit along the coast to Plettenburg Bay as I had heard it was very beautiful. I also stopped at Wilderness and Knysna. The coastal Garden Route was just as stunning as the mountain route and I’m so pleased I drove a bit of it. When I got to Plettenburg Bay, I walked along the long beach, paddled but didn’t swim…still a bit cold for me.
Nesting 
What the hell was this on the beach?? 
The next day I went back up the mountain road because when I came down it, it had been misty and I thought there was probably great views…I was right. While in George I also visited a transport museum…not because I’m interested in trains but because they had a little tourist train that went up the mountain…it was closed (have I mentioned before, it’s off season here ??) The Springboks tour coach was there, and when people found out I was English, they insisted on taking my photo next to it, looking sad….I obliged. I drove to Mossell Bay, had a nice lunch then ‘face-timed’ Iris at work who was retiring. It was lovely to see everyone, but I don’t miss work.
And finally, don’t rely on google maps, in fact always have a back-up plan on how to get somewhere. I really have become too reliant on technology. I need to do Tony P’s orienteering course??? Also when lost, just hope that your mum doesn’t phone you in the middle of it, because she will worry and an international incident may be declared. Or at least be more clear in telling her that all is ok ???? Sorry mum, and Martha ??
OMG chelle!!! You were so bloody close to coffee bay and you are so bloody brave!! keep going, you are amazing, what an experience xx
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I nearly phoned the South African police to rescue you!
Try not to scare me again.
Love you,
Muv XX ?
Was SO great to see you briefly on facetime love, you look so well. Loving the blogs too xx
Thanks Anna xx
Michelle how are we supposed to keep up with you? What a fantastic adventure. How did you stay so calm. Clearly incredibly resourceful. We never get lost … just temporarily misplaced! lol
It all sound so great. It’s good to be back in a theatre isn’t it?
Looking forward to following your travels. Where did you say you are off too next? xx
Oh by the way … I don’t do orienteering, I do full on land navigation lol.